The process of learning to catch a wave is an all-consuming activity that can prove to be a powerful therapeutic toolI can’t remember when my terror of waves began in earnest. Maybe it was a singular incident that triggered it, like that monster wave in Biarritz, France, almost 20 years ago that body-slammed me on to the seabed, taking all the skin off my chin.More likely is that my transition from fearless to frightened had been more of a slow creep, and a perfectly rational one when you consid...