Conviviale: It's about time London had a shrine to Montreal drinking and dining

Ley lines probably don’t exist. What were first imagined in the 1920s by the amateur archaeologist Alfred Watkins, then as historic trade routes in pre-Roman times, became altogether more mystical in the 1960s when people called Rain and Sekoya decided ley lines were all about energy and psychic powers. But there are cities that seem to emulate a higher power, and it just so happens that they bend around the world, starting at Montreal, stopping at New York before Naples, Athens and so on, and ending up at the gates of Tokyo. Maybe it’s just that these cities have fabulous party scenes. The ley line begins in Montreal. Montreal is a wonderful city; to be gently reductive, or at least to view the place through a British traveller’s food lens, it's a bit like New York, only colder and a little less frenetic. There are superb wine bars, hotdogs and pizza by the slice, and moody cocktail bars that encourage discretion. The lauded bistro Joe Beef, with its bamboozling martinis and “clams on the radio”, has existed as a sort of gastro-monument — aided by visits from Anthony Bourdain — since 2005; Leonard Cohen would eat at Bagel Etc. every day and fair play to him; Schwartz’s is talked about in the same breath as Manhattan meat temple Katz’s, probably the world’s most famous delicatessen. I prefer Schwartz’s, if pushed. It’s a touch juicier. PoutineConvivialeI’m pleased to see a bit of Montreal in London by way of Conviviale, a new wine bar in Canonbury in situ where Vins used to be. Much the same as so many take inspiration from New York, it’s about time the Québécois city got a look in, its French-Canadian marvels presented to London’s ever-eager crowds. We have Montreal-born former tech executive Cat Barry to thank. Her wine bar and buvette — a modest, casual snack bar, like an osteria in Italy or a classic boozer here — shines a light on the “great nightlife, energy and food” her hometown embodies. Lots of wines, then, many from Barry’s own cellar, and plenty of cheese and charcuterie, two cornerstones of Québécois dining. Most recently, Conviviale served chilled red wine with Montreal steamies, a classic hotdog topped with mustard, green relish, chopped onions and a snappy coleslaw. My hope is that these become a permanent fixture. And that proper poutine appears on the menu, the sort served at Pierrette Patates in Verdun, an old riverside neighbourhood which warmed me extensively and cured my Joe Beef-incubated hangover. Ley lines might not exist. Montreal definitely does, and now a little bit of it is here. Bar snacks Something that looks deeply enjoyable is the new cultural programme at Bar Blondie, Alex Price and Elliot Milne’s new(ish) wine bar and bistro in “bustling” Queen’s Park. Now running are chess nights on the last Tuesday of every month (enter by buying a glass of wine), DJs each Friday night, a poetry evening with South London artist Aicha Therese on November 17 (£10 per person), and a speaker series beginning with author Emma-Louise Boynton on December 1 (£45 with drinks and a book). The chef Khadim Mane is looking to raise £50,000 to relaunch his Senegalese restaurant concept Little Baobab. The restaurant was previously based at the Africa Centre in Southwark, which closed unexpectedly in July. Mane has launched a crowdfunding campaign to find a new site and continue serving dishes such as thieboudienne, Senegal’s national dish of white fish, rice and tomatoes, and yassa, a spicy combination of chicken (often), mustard and lemon.