Cinnamon knots to Hungarian sausage: Where to eat in this thriving inner west village

Within Melbourne’s inner west, Footscray tends to steal the dining spotlight with its density and depth of choices spanning East African to Latin American, strip malls to fine diners. But neighbouring Yarraville has its own compelling food culture.The village-like suburb has long balanced old and new. Post-war Greek migrants opened some of the earliest restaurants: the owners of Eleni’s on Anderson Street have history in the suburb going back to an unnamed eatery run by their grandparents. Meanwhile, newer arrivals have broadened the culinary landscape. Fruit and custard Danish at OCAB bakery.Eddie JimJapanese, Vietnamese, Hungarian and North American traditions today sit side-by-side with Mediterranean influences, as seen in longstanding local favourite Rocco’s Deli. There’s also a slate of excellent bakeries: Greek-owned Alfa Yarraville has been running since 1998, while Cobb Lane’s original flagship helped kick off a new wave of sourdough and pastry in 2013. A growing number of wine bars are also reshaping the area. Bar Gabi, from the team behind two-hatted destination fine diner Navi, is among the newest, set to open next month. Spread across two levels, it will bring charcoal-threaded cooking and a looser, retro feel to the heart of Yarraville village. Also coming soon is a second outpost of Macgregor’s, an Abbotsford burger joint that’s built a cult following for quality-led Americana smash patties and beef tallow fries.Centred around the landmark Sun Theatre and within easy walking distance of the train station, Yarraville’s dining scene is conveniently condensed. Start with a morning coffee, browse a deli or bakery, settle into a long lunch and finish with a glass of wine.Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.Sign upCoracle’s Japanese breakfast set with grilled toothfish.Jason SouthCoracle An emphasis on high-grade matcha and Vietnamese espresso may suggest that Coracle is just another drinks-obsessed cafe, but it’s essentially a restaurant in disguise. There is toast, yes – shokupan cut thick and served with condiments such as miso caramel butter – but the highlight is the Japanese-inspired breakfast set. It’s pricier than your average brunch, but beautifully grilled seafood, seasonal side dishes and meticulous attention to detail justify the splurge. Other dishes are equally thoughtful, drawing on owners Tam “Jane” Duong and Tat Ying “Benny” Wong’s Vietnamese and Hong Kong heritage.What to order: Asagohan – grilled fish of the day with rice, okazu (assorted side dishes) and tea.63-65 Anderson Street, Yarraville, coracledining.com Chilli cheese twists from Cobb Lane. Cobb LaneA beacon of slow-fermented sourdough and pastries, Cobb Lane now has four bakeries and a fifth on the way – but Yarraville was the first. Set away from the village in an industrial building, it doesn’t have the street presence of some of the area’s other bakeries – look for the pigeons marking the door – but it’s worth wandering over for excellent viennoiserie, loaves and provisions to take home.What to order: Cheese and chilli twist; raspberry matcha lamington.1-3 Taylor Street, Yarraville, cobblane.com.auOCAB Bakery This beloved boundary-pusher began in Moonee Ponds before opening a second location on Ballarat Street, where queues regularly form for its bakes. Croissants might be filled with pistachio and rosewater or chocolate and hazelnut frangipane, and the choices don’t end there. Vegan double-chocolate cookies, old-school glazed doughnuts and pudgy cinnamon knots cover sweets. For something savoury, check the warmer for pies, perhaps beef cheek and mushroom. Or opt for a sandwich on house-made sourdough or focaccia.What to order: Iced cinnamon knot; chicken and leek pie.32A Ballarat Street, Yarraville, ocab.com.au Eleni’sSisters Eleftheria “Thierry” and Anatoli Amanatidis opened Eleni’s more than a decade ago, reviving a family legacy of feeding Yarraville. The menu is rooted in the generous style of Greek-Australian cooking many locals grew up with: lamb cutlets, king prawns and quail cooked over fire; a bounty of stuffed vegetables; and traditional Greek desserts. The theme continues at sibling venue Jimmy’s Deli, where Thierry’s sweet side hustle, Cakes by Thierry, is on full display alongside American-meets-European sandwiches.What to order: Lamb kleftiko, which is slow-roasted in parchment paper; galaktoboureko.28 Anderson Street, Yarraville, eleniskitchen.com.au Tzaki Where Eleni’s looks to Greek-Australian tradition, Good Food Guide Critics’ Pick-listed Tzaki takes its cues from the contemporary wine bars of Athens. The compact venue centres around a wood oven that touches most dishes, from seafood and smoked saganaki to tender chickpeas and carrots that yield to the gentlest press of a fork. The approach reflects the produce-driven cooking of Greece. Pull up a seat at the counter for the best view of the action. Next door, sibling business Kokoras applies the same philosophy to charcoal chicken-shop classics.What to order: Revithia (braised chickpeas); flatbread.31 Ballarat Street, Yarraville, tzaki.au GloversThis approachable newcomer sits somewhere between wine bar and pub, with butcher Darren Moncrieff, chef Andy Gale and venue manager Soma Deak each playing to their strengths. Rotating specials, a daily happy hour and a laid-back atmosphere provide plenty of reasons to become a regular. Find $20 schnitzels and snack-and-cocktail pairings on Wednesdays, and $30 steaks on Thursdays. Deak’s Hungarian heritage comes through in house-made sausages, while his wine background is evident in a list that spans lo-fi local drops and classic varietals.What to order: Hungarian sausage.34 Ballarat Street, Yarraville, instagram.com/glovers_yarraville NaviOne of Melbourne’s most groundbreaking fine diners, Navi made Yarraville a dining magnet when it opened in 2018 and again when chef Julian Hills won Chef of the Year in The Age Good Food Guide 2023. Hills’ Cherokee heritage comes through in the name, while the menu uses exclusively local ingredients, many native to Australia. Set menus start at $115 and are served on ceramics that Hills crafts himself, while the adjoining Navi Lounge is a more affordable entry point for cocktails and snacks.What to order: The Navi set menu (from $115pp).83B Gamon Street, Yarraville, restaurantnavi.com.au Inside Bar Romanee in Yarraville.Bar RomaneeYou’d never know this Euro-leaning eatery was once a Bakers Delight. White walls and emerald-green details give it bistro sensibilities without feeling too fussy. The menu is a choose-your-own-adventure affair: drop in for oysters and spritzes at happy hour, order a few snacks and a carafe of wine, or go all in with the $90 chef’s menu. Bread comes from Cobb Lane, the wine list leans Victorian with a touch of Europe, and coffee is served into the evening – a rarity in Melbourne and a godsend in a sleepy suburb.What to order: Spanner crab toast, anchovy on a house-made potato crisp, crumbed ox tongue.25 Anderson Street, Yarraville, barromanee.com