Azelaic Acid Is Having a Moment—But What Does It Actually Do?

E! illustration/Lush Cosmetics, ANUA, Reale ActivesIt seems like every other week, there's a new skincare ingredient everyone's obsessing over. And now, azelaic acid is that girl for fall and winter. With so many new products on the market starring this viral ingredient, we simply have to know all the details. We spoke to Amity Murray, lead esthetician at the Hotel Chelsea Spa and a Lush skincare ambassador, to get all the information we need about azelaic acid. From the calming products she recommends to tips on how to use the ingredient properly, she set us up for success. And who better to trust with our skin than the esthetician who makes this editor's skin glowy and hydrated? So, keep scrolling to learn more about azelaic acid and add a new skincare product to your routine while you're at it! Instead of exfoliating, azelaic acid regulates cells to calm redness and soothe breakouts for people who have rosacea and acne. Even though it's gentle, Murray advises her clients to space out all actives (including azelaic acid) and not mix them in one routine. Murray recommends products that use whole ingredients that have naturally occurring azelaic acid in them, like Lush's Oat Cleansing Balm and Skin's Shangri La Self-Preserving Moisturizer.What is Azelaic Acid? According to Murray, azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in the skin by normal skin yeast and grains (like barley and wheat). Unlike other exfoliating acids, this one is used to calm and brighten the skin. "It is a common treatment for rosacea and acne. It works by regulating cells rather than exfoliating like other acids, so it is much more gentle than glycolic or lactic and generally tolerated by sensitive skin," she told E!. "Clients who would benefit the most from azelaic acid would be clients with rosacea or breakouts with lots of redness in their skin."How to Use Azelaic Acid? While azelaic acid is meant to be gentle on the skin, it's still an active. In general, it's not recommended to mix actives in the same skincare routine. Double-check your products before using them in the same routine, especially when you're trying them for the first time. It's also known to cause mild purging, with users saying it causes more breakouts in the first few weeks. "Generally speaking, especially for sensitive, rosacea-prone, or breakout-prone skin, it is always wise to space out any actives," Murray told E! "Using too many active products at the same time can cause dryness or barrier dysfunction. I recommend using it on its own at night."Expert-Recommended Azelaic Acid Products: Murray recommended skincare products that use whole ingredients that contain azelaic acid as a naturally occurring compound, not isolated in their formulations. This acid is produced in the skin's microbiome by the yeast Malassezia furfur, so opt for a brand that keeps a healthy microbiome in mind when developing—like Lush. "Because in these instances we're using the whole ingredient and not a synthetic, isolated compound as you might see out there on the shelves," she explained to E!. "The concentration of the acid would be gentler than a commercial product yet also comes with the added benefits of the whole ingredient."Lush Oat Cleansing BalmThis cleansing balm is formulated with handmade whole oat infusion, sunflower oil, organic almond oil, honey, beeswax, patchouli, lavender, clary sage oil, and millet extract—which contains naturally occurring compounds, including azelaic acid—to soften, soothe, and keep your skin looking radiant. Lush Skin's Shangri La Self-Preserving MoisturizerThis moisturizer promises to tone and soften mature skin, with its formula full of fresh wheatgrass juice, evening primrose oil, seaweed, organic almond oil, and wheat sprout extract (which contains all the naturally occurring compounds of the plant, including azelaic acid). Shop More Azelaic Acid Products:Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid BoosterThis multi-tasking cream has a powerful boosting formula that includes 10% azelaic acid, salicylic acid, and licorice root extract to even out skin tone, brighten hyperpigmentation, fade post-breakout marks, smooth texture, and calm redness. Remedy 15% Azelaic Acid Complex Clarifying SerumThis clarifying serum is formulated with a blend of 10% azelaic acid and 5% glycinated azelaic acid to target redness, dark spots, and blemishes. It's also infused with niacinamide, acetyl glucosamine, vitamin B12, and beta-glucan to even your tone and soothe the skin. Good Molecules 10% Azelaic Acid TreatmentThis affordable treatment promises to reduce post-acne spots and soothe redness, with its formula of 10% azelaic acid, CICA exosomes, and concentrated passion fruit oil. ANUA Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing SerumThis K-Beauty serum is infused with 10% azelaic acid, three types of hyaluronic acid, and a blend of blue tansy oil, ubiquinone, green tea leaf water, aloe leaf juice, and seven types of cica to soothe and hydrate the skin. Experiment Continuum Daily Multi-Clarifying TreatmentThis TikTok-viral treatment promises to control your breakouts, brighten the skin, and fade post-blemish marks, with its formula of 1% encapsulated salicylic acid, fullerenes, and 3.7% glycinated azelaic acid.Bubble Dream Fade Discoloration Rescue SerumThis serum is formulated with 10% azelaic acid, salicylic acid, bakuchiol, and glycerin to fade discoloration, even tone, exfoliate, improve overall texture, hydrate skin, and support the moisture barrier. P.Calm Azelaic Acid Matcha 1000 Calming Gauze Gel Toner PadThese individually soaked toner pads are infused with azelaic acid and matcha to reduce redness and soothe irritated and sensitive skin. Reale Actives Go Calm SerumMade to address the overlap between acne-prone and sensitive skin types, this azelaic acid serum is also infused with niacinamide, betaine, and the brand's calm signal complex to help promote clearer and calmer skin over time.How We ChooseThe E! Insider Shop editors and writers search the internet to find the best products out there. We interview expert sources, comb through customer reviews, and use our own personal experiences to make shopping easier for our readers.As an editorial team, we independently create content and determine coverage based on research, reporting and what we think our readers would like to read about. The goal of our content is to provide a service and inform readers who are on the hunt for the latest products to help make their life better. Items are sold by retailer, not E!. Pricing and availability are accurate as of publish time.