An Old Summer Ski School in Iceland’s Highlands Is Now a Hotel Worth the 3.5-Hour Drive From Reykjavík

Accommodations at Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll: Remote but not out of reach Photo: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll Even inside my lodge, I felt connected to the nature around me. The design was Nordic and minimalist, and the feature that stood out most to me was the television at the far end of the room. Well, Highland Base’s version of one, anyway: a large picture window that takes up most of the wall and makes the scenery outside your entertainment. I had a direct view of Ásgarður Valley and the property’s colorful A-frame huts, and I could have stared at it for hours as the Ásgarðsá River flowed and the sun set behind the mountains. Accommodations at Highland Base span a range of budgets, from riverside campsites to private lodges. As someone who’s visited Iceland 10 times, I know how hard it can be to find a place to stay that suits your needs, but here, options include 46 rooms and two suites in the heart of the property, six lodges, seven A-frame huts, and the campground. As of my October 2026 visit, lodge prices for summer and fall 2027 will start at $1,097 per night, while hotel rooms will start at $502. The campsite will operate in 2027 from June 15 to September 30, with spots starting at $25 per adult per night. Activities at Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll: From hot springs to buggy tours Photo: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll The most immersive experience during my trip was the Highland Baths, set near the riverbed and overlooking Ásgarður Valley. The geothermal mineral water keeps you warm while you take in the mountain views, and there’s a cold plunge, sauna, and bar alongside. I shared the pool with travelers from different parts of the world, all getting a taste of Icelandic bathing culture. It can feel daunting to explore such a remote and unpredictable environment. If you don’t want to venture out on your own, Highland Base offers several guided activities. Our hiking guide, Alex, led us to the empty parking area at Hveradalir, which translates to the “Valley of Hot Springs.” Steam rose between mineral-painted mountains. It’s the most fragile ground in the reserve, where the crust around the vents is thin, so stay on the marked paths and boardwalks. With the summer crowds gone by October, our small hiking group had the valley to ourselves. You can also explore the area on guided e-bike and buggy tours. After suiting up in insulated overalls and protective gear, I buckled into my buggy and followed our guide through the Hveradalir area. That day, I got a taste of Central Highlands weather in October: snow flurries on the morning hike, then clear blue skies by the time we were riding. I finished the outdoor excursions just in time for the Icelandic waffle bar, served daily from 3:00 to 5:00 PM in the property’s restaurant. Enjoying hot cocoa with heart-shaped waffles was the ideal way to unwind from the day’s activities. Highland Base’s guides aren’t required for outdoor adventures, though. You can choose between short hikes and all-day expeditions past steaming valleys, volcanic peaks, glacier views, hot springs, bubbling mud pools, and waterfalls. Staff can advise on trails and conditions before you head out. It’s best to come prepared with your own weatherproof attire, but know that you can rent gear such as hiking boots and poles, crampons, and waterproof clothing through Highland base as needed. Dining at Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll: The only table for miles Photo: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll Highland Base’s restaurant is the only place to eat in the area, but it doesn’t feel limited. The à la carte dinner menu changes between summer and winter. I had trouble choosing among the Icelandic lamb, freshly caught cod, roasted broccoli, and beef with mashed potatoes, so I tried something new each night. The dessert menu featured pairings that surprised me, the standout being the dill and apple sorbet over white chocolate and coconut mousse. Breakfast is a buffet that’s included for hotel and lodge guests and available for purchase for other visitors. If you’re heading out for the day, the kitchen also packs takeaway breakfast and lunch boxes. When to visit Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll: Fall days, aurora nights Photo: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll Visiting Iceland in the shoulder season (September and October) means a chance to see the northern lights while there’s still enough daylight for a full day of hiking. On my last night, I was lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the aurora borealis. I quickly forgot about the frigid night air as I watched green ribbons emerge through quick-moving clouds. Given Iceland’s unpredictable and sometimes volatile weather, I felt fortunate to see the phenomenon, and with the complete lack of light pollution in the Central Highlands meant there was nothing to compete with it. Getting to Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll Photo: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll Iceland’s Central Highlands are one of the least explored areas in the country. The region is mostly glacier, lava field, and rhyolite, crossed by gravel roads. The drive from Reykjavík takes about 3.5 hours and covers 124 miles, much of it unpaved (although the road that leads to Highland Base Keringlarfjöll has become more accessible over time). From Gullfoss, you take Route 35 (Kjalvegur) north into the highlands, then turn east onto the F347 for the last stretch. While the mountain road is open, you can drive in with an F-road-approved 4×4 or take the property’s bus transfers. These transfers are available on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays in June and September, and daily in July and August (check the schedule when booking). Starting in October, when the roads are no longer serviced, the only way in is by super jeep with a professional driver. Transfers in are on Thursdays and Fridays, while transfers back out depart on Saturdays and Sundays. Because winter weather can stretch the trip, the property suggests booking departing flights at least 24 hours after checkout. Book Now More like this