A Face Oil? For Acne? Yes! Derms Recommend These.

7 min readI’ve spent more of my adult years dealing with acne breakouts than having clear skin. And as a long-term spot treatment user, I’ve learned that many of them leave something to be desired. Don’t get me wrong; there are plenty of great options that work like magic, sopping up oil and helping to shrink a painful blemish overnight. Those get my beauty editor stamp of approval. But it seems like just as many dry out my skin, leave it red and irritated, or burn off the top layer. No thanks.Every now and then, though, a new type of hybrid skincare product pops up that makes me want to completely rethink my at-home acne routine. First it was a high-frequency wand (yes, it works!), then pimple patches, and now, I’m very into face oils that target breakouts without the dreaded dryness.Face oils have always had their place in skin care, but the idea seems counterintuitive to those with oily and acne-prone skin. Won’t they just make the problem worse? Surprisingly, no. In fact, applying the right oil to blemish-prone skin just may be its saving grace: Research shows that some botanical oils (like tea tree oil) can reduce inflammatory acne lesions thanks to their antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Plus, face oils are known to add a layer of hydration to the skin (often necessary when dealing with and treating acne), so the idea of oils that target breakouts while improving overall skin health makes perfect sense.Meet the experts: Dendy Engelman, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist in New York. Jenna Queller, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Boca Raton, Florida. Brian Goodwin is the international educator for Eminence Organic Skin Care.It’s important to keep in mind, however, not all facial oils are created equal. So I went straight to the source—top dermatologists—to unpack everything you need to know about which oils to use, how to use ‘em, and whether they’ll be right for your skin. After all, acne is a multi-factorial skin condition that often requires a diverse approach to treat it on all fronts.Allow these oils to be a part of that approach.Why are face oils for acne so hot right now? The trend is a departure from the old-think that acne-prone skin needs to be stripped, dried out, and mattified in order to clear it up, says Dendy Engelman, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist in New York. “Oftentimes, acne-prone skin can become dehydrated, inflamed, and barrier-impaired, especially when overusing harsh actives,” she says. “Oils that are formulated for blemish-prone skin are appealing because they feel more restorative while still targeting congestion, redness, and irritation.”Unlike traditional facial oils, which are primarily meant to moisturize and nourish, facial oils for acne-prone skin have a different purpose, says Jenna Queller, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Boca Raton, Florida “These products often contain ingredients with antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, or oil-balancing properties,” Dr. Queller says. “The formulation is what matters because not all oils behave the same way on the skin.”Acne oils tend to be lightweight, non-comedogenic, and plant-based, and are used as an alternative to harsher spot treatments while supporting the skin barrier, says Brian Goodwin, International Educator for Eminence Organic Skin Care. Some common ingredients you’ll spy in these products include tea tree, rosehip, or jojoba oil, along with grapeseed oil, green tea extract, argan oil, or squalene. “Many of the barrier-supportive ingredients in these products tend to be better tolerated by acne-prone patients,” adds Dr. Engelman. You may also find a few tried-and-true acne fighters like salicylic acid or retinol added to these products—both pair well with the botanical, skin-friendly oils mentioned above to balance skin while reducing bacteria and calming inflammation and redness.At the end of the day, “you want to look for oil-based products that are labeled as non-comedogenic or safe for acne-prone skin and that are lightweight, fragrance-free, and dermatologist-tested,” advises Dr. Engelman, who also recommends avoiding highly fragranced formulas and essential oil blends that are not clearly balanced or diluted (they’re common skin irritants otherwise).The benefits of anti-acne oils. For breakout-prone skin that’s out of balance, a good oil can do wonders. But there’s more to using an anti-acne oil than just clearing up the skin.They help regulate oil production: Using acne oils, especially those rich in linoleic acid, can help balance excess sebum production. Oily and acne-prone skin is often low in linoleic acid, which is an essential fatty acid that helps prevent clogged pores. So instead of clogged pores, increased linoleic acid can improve how sebum flows out of the pores, which also means fewer breakouts.They help calm the skin: Most anti-acne oils contain calming, anti-inflammatory ingredients that diminish swelling, inflammation, and redness in the skin. “Some oils may also help reduce the look of irritation around a blemish, which can make breakouts appear less angry,” Dr. Engelman says.They can strengthen the skin barrier: Breakout-prone skin often has a compromised skin barrier, which can wreak havoc on overall skin health. But using an anti-acne oil regularly can help restore this protective layer. “These oils replenish lipids and help prevent transepidermal water loss, which is especially important for patients using drying acne treatments,” says Dr. Engelman.They help hydrate skin: Facial oils are generally beloved for their ability to seal moisture into skin, and acne-centric options are no different. “A well-formulated product can support blemish-prone skin without the harsh, drying feeling many people associate with acne treatments,” says Dr. Engelman. Who are anti-acne oils best for? According to Dr. Queller, oils formulated specifically to treat acne bumps and lesions tend to work best for those with mild acne or anyone who finds that traditional acne products leave their skin feeling excessively dry or irritated. “They may also be helpful as part of a maintenance routine once their acne is under control.”Patients with more moderate to severe inflammatory or cystic acne must be cautious with them since this degree of acne usually requires more targeted treatments. “And anyone with very sensitive skin or known allergies to essential oils should always read the ingredient labels carefully,” Dr. Queller adds.What’s the difference between a face oil and a traditional spot treatment?Spot treatments and oils that target pimples may work toward the same goal, but there are a handful of differences between the two. For starters, the application methods vary vastly. Spot treatments are intended to be used on specific blemishes, whereas oils are meant to be applied all over the face. Dr. Queller explains that unlike a traditional spot treatment, which is meant to dry out an individual pimple, an acne oil should be applied more broadly to help reduce overall inflammation while supporting the skin barrier to reduce inflammation and prevent future breakouts.Then, there’s the dryness issue. Some spot treatments are known to leave skin feeling dry and stripped because, as Dr. Engelman explains, they often rely on benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, sulfur, or exfoliating acids. “An oil-based treatment tends to feel less drying to the surrounding skin,” she says. “They calm the skin, support the barrier, and help to reduce the visible irritation that often comes with breakouts. So, they can be helpful for patients who get pimples but also struggle with flaking, sensitivity, or irritation from stronger acne actives.”For starters, always look for “non-comedogenic” formulas, which are designed to reduce the risk of clogged pores and are often denoted on the packaging or bottle. Goodwin explains that a non-comedogenic oil is essential because pore-clogging ingredients create an environment where acne-causing bacteria are likely to thrive, resulting in blemishes. “Also, look for products formulated for blemish-prone skin and, when in doubt, consult an esthetician or dermatologist to review ingredient lists and determine what's best for their skin type,” he says. It’s also a good idea to steer clear of fragranced oils, especially for sensitive skin.From there, test patch an oil before applying it everywhere. Goodwin recommends using the oil on your inner elbow or a small area at the outer perimeter of the face for a few days to see if any reactions occur. “If not, you’re pretty much in the clear to apply it to the whole face,” Goodwin says. He also prefers gradually introducing the oil, allowing the skin time to adjust. “Start by applying it at night every few days, then slowly increase the frequency until you can use it nightly,” he says. “This helps the skin adapt to new ingredients while minimizing sensitivity.”Since facial oils are usually one of the last steps in a skincare routine, Dr. Queller suggests applying one that targets breakouts after using water-based serums but before or after moisturizer (they can sometimes take the place of one), depending on the product’s instructions. “Consistency is important, but more isn’t necessarily better,” she says. “As with most acne treatments, it typically takes at least eight to twelve weeks to see meaningful improvement. If acne is worsening or not improving after a couple of months, it’s time to see a board-certified dermatologist.”Naturally, there’s a time and place when spot treatments and anti-breakout oils can be used together and complement one another. “If someone has an isolated inflamed blemish, they may use a targeted spot treatment and an oil to help maintain skin balance and hydration,” Goodwin adds. On the flip side, Dr. Engelman considers these types of oils supportive treatments, rather than replacements for proven acne therapies like retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or prescription medications when needed. “Acne is complex, so an oil alone usually will not address the cause of breakouts, especially hormonal acne, cystic acne, or persistent comedonal acne,” she says.3 Acne-Fighting Oils Our Editors LoveEminence Organics Charcoal & Black Seed Clarifying OilA little of this vegan, smells-so-good oil goes a long way. Good for oily, congested, and combination skin, this activated charcoal and black seed oil-powered formula helps absorb excess sebum on the skin’s surface so that breakouts don’t stand a chance.True Botanicals Pure Radiance OilThis lightweight oil calls on the heavy-hitting power of helichrysum, an antibacterial known to prevent breakouts, and pumpkin and grape seed oils to balance sebum on the skin. While its main benefit is clearing up problematic skin, it also helps fight the common signs of aging and imparts a pretty glow. Just make sure to use the oil consistently, even once you reach peak clearness.Alpyn Beauty Clarifying Facial OilCredit: Alpyn BeautyLooking to tackle breakouts, fine lines, and uneven texture? This multitasking does-it-all oil targets all of that and then some. A mix of soothing raspberry, pore-unclogging salicylic acid, and skin-smoothing and plumping retinol and pro-retinol pink algae work together to deliver clear skin sans the congestion.The bottom line: Oils can fight acne, but should be paired with other proven ingredients.If dabbling with spot treatments leaves your skin red, dry, peeling, or inflamed, but you still want to do everything possible to erase problematic pimples and unclog congested pores, it may be time to swap your regular spot treatment for a facial oil that targets acne. Years of using acne skincare products may leave your skin on the drier side, and these easy-to-use oils are a quick, easy way to get your skin back in check and on the path to healthy.Now, every day can be a good skin day.Brian Underwood is beauty director at Women’s Health, where he oversees content strategy for the brand across all platforms, including digital, print, and social. Underwood previously served as beauty and wellness director at Oprah Daily and O, The Oprah Magazine. During his tenure leading beauty content for the Oprah brand at Hearst, stories Underwood commissioned were awarded the Skin Cancer Foundation Media Award and a Fragrance Award for Editorial Excellence (his second). He was the launch Beauty Director of Dr. Oz THE GOOD LIFE, and has held additional editorial positions at Fitness, Organic Style, Good Housekeeping, Life & Style Weekly, and Woman’s Day and has written for Self, Shape, Seventeen, Redbook, Cosmopolitan, and many more. Underwood previously served on the Skin Cancer Foundation’s gala committee and as partnerships director of the Trans Beauty Clinic, a New York-based charitable organization that provided beauty services and workshops to the city’s trans community.