A Crash Course in Corduroy

Every product was carefully curated by an Esquire editor. We may earn a commission from these links. Here’s how we test products and why you should trust us.Michael Ochs Archives//Getty Images4 min readAccording to a recent and deeply unscientific poll conducted by yours truly, some guys are confounded by corduroy. They like it. They want to wear it. But they’re not quite sure how it figures into their wardrobes. This is a pity, because corduroy is great. It’s warm, hard-wearing, delivers texture galore, and can work beautifully in the context of all different types of personal style.So, in the interest of getting these guys—and you!—properly outfitted, I’m offering this crash course in corduroy. It’ll give you the key information you need to understand the fabric’s history and how you can wear it now. Let’s dive in.Icon and Image//Getty ImagesLead image: Robert Redford in his corduroy suit in All the President’s Men. Above: Miles Davis wearing corduroy trousers in 1951.It’s Probably Not the “Cord of the King” There’s a great story about the name “corduroy” being derived from the French phrase “corde du roi,” or “cord of the king.” It conjures up all sorts of noble associations and sounds cool, like so much menswear lore does. The problem is, it’s likely apocryphal. No one really knows the root of the word for sure. (But if you want to bust out that tidbit at a dinner party and let your friends believe it, we wouldn’t blame you.)Corduroy’s Early Days and EvolutionWhat we do know is that corduroy traces its roots back to a category of fabric called fustian—basically heavy cloth, often used for menswear, that was usually woven from cotton (though there have been woolen and linen variations over the many centuries that fustian has existed). The name might come from the city of Fustat, near Cairo, which manufactured that sort of cloth. Or maybe it doesn’t. More menswear lore!What sets corduroy apart from other fustian cloths like velveteen and moleskin is its distinctive ribbing. That innovation is newer; it was developed in Manchester around the middle of the 18th century, when the city became a center of production for cotton fabrics like velvet and the modern iteration of corduroy. The ribs are known as wales, and they’re created by weaving extra thread into the base fabric and then trimming them to created tufted, vertical ridges offset by channels between them.Tristar Media//Getty ImagesChris Evans wearing a corduroy suit in 2024.This “modern” corduroy quickly became a workwear staple thanks to its durability and warmth. It was only later that it migrated to British country clothing and, eventually, to the rest of the globe. It slowly filtered into U. S. academia throughout the first half of the 20th century, eventually leading to the well-known stereotype of the college professor with the well-worn and elbow-patched corduroy jacket. It hit the counterculture in the ’60s. And it absolutely boomed in the ’70s, showing up on the era’s leading men both on and off the silver screen.Since then, like all menswear staples, its popularity has ebbed and flowed. But, like denim, it never truly goes out of style. It’s all about how you wear it.Ernesto Ruscio//Getty ImagesCorduroy connoisseur Wes Anderson in 2010.Wale Width, DecodedThe width of the wales is measured by how many you can fit into an inch, so an 8-wale corduroy has thicker ridges than, say, a 12-wale corduroy. Most “standard” corduroy sits around 11 to 13 wales per inch. Chunkier stuff has a lower number, while “pinwale” or “needlecord” is higher, around 16 or higher. As you might guess, the chunkier stuff reads more rugged and the finer stuff feels more refined.What Is Bedford Cord?Developed in and named after the town of New Bedford, Massachusettts, this fabric has distinctive vertical ridges, loads of durability, and roots in the world of workwear. It’s not quite corduroy, though. The ridges are created by the way the base fabric is woven, not by adding additional threads and trimming them. Still, it’s worth having on your radar if you like the look and feel of corduroy.Avalon//Getty ImagesPaul Newman in a cord jacket, circa 1960.How to Wear Corduroy NowJust … wear it. I know that sounds like fake advice, but it’s really not worth overthinking it. Yes, you’ll want to think about the weather, because corduroy can wear warmer than other fabrics. And you might want to get yourself used to the idea of the occasional whoosh of the ribbed fabric rubbing against itself (it’s not as distracting as the crinkle of a nylon shell suit, but it’s audible). But corduroy in its current form because it works. It wears in beautifully, fends off the cold, and adds some always-welcome depth and texture to any outfit.If you’re still nervous, start with something simple, like a corduroy jacket—your call on whether it’s a sport coat or something more utilitarian—or some five-pocket cord pants. You could rock it as an overshirt (go wide wale) or as a button-up. You could even channel everyone from Wes Anderson to Robert Redford with a full corduroy suit, though you might want to avoid the elbow patches if you don’t want to look too professorial.Ernesto Ruscio//Getty ImagesTimothée Chalamet wearing corduroy during his Dylan era, 2025.As for what to wear it with? Well, nothing too techy. A super-stretchy golf shirt doesn’t exactly match the vibe; ditto that for polyester joggers. And nothing too fine or fancy, either. Because of its more casual and country-ish vibe, corduroy might not be the best complement to spit-polished oxford shoes or a particularly delicate worsted wool. The idea is to look for a sense of cohesion with your outfit, and anything that reads as deliberately futuristic or self-consciously dressy could detract from that.Otherwise, options abound, especially when you start talking about other classic menswear fabrics and items. Corduroy looks great with beefy oxford-cloth button-downs. It plays well with denim and chino and flannel and hopsack. And don’t be afraid of going all-in on texture. Bust out a shaggy Shetland or cable-knit sweater. Bring some tweed into the mix. Corduroy shouldn’t be confusing; it should be easy. So play around a little. You’re bound to have a (sorry) wale of a good time.10 Corduroy Picks We’re Loving Right Now