22 Killer Watches I Saw at One of New York’s Most Exclusive Collector Hangs

At a Midtown steakhouse guarded by an off-duty police officer, a slew of legendary Rolexes and Patek Phillipes came out to play.This is an edition of the newsletter Box + Papers, Cam Wolf’s weekly deep dive into the world of watches. Sign up here.I knew the watch collector meetup I was going to was legit when its organizer sent this text to the group: “We’ve engaged an off-duty NYPD detective to work security for our dinner. So, now really no reason not to bring your best!”Last Wednesday night, at a fancy steakhouse in Midtown Manhattan, I was reminded why I love these enthusiast-organized events. This one was relatively small in comparison to blowouts like Rolliefest, but the idea was the same: A dozen or so collectors brought along their most prized timepieces and plunked them down on the table unattended (besides the off-duty NYPD detective, of course). When I asked one attendee if I could take his Breguet—similar to one heading to auction this weekend with a $73,000 estimate—across the room to take a photograph, he reacted like I’d asked if I could breathe oxygen: Of course! What a silly question. Events like these genuinely reflect the best of the hobby: deeply passionate collectors who really just want to share their watches with like-minded obsessives.Between bites of miniature beef wellingtons and medium-rare steak, the guests passed around and ogled the dozens of grails on display. There were new classics on the table—including Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin, a leading contender for watch of the year—alongside plenty of old ones, including every flavor of vintage Rolex, from GMT-Masters to Daytonas to Explorer IIs. I was standing with one collector as he examined a pretty vintage Rolex GMT-Master. He stopped and looked around. So-and-so must be here, he muttered aloud. How did he know? Because he recognized the shade of the patina on the dial.This particular group started getting together a couple of years ago, after the collectors @HorologicallyMinded, @s_h_lemon, @null_islands, and @jmsfisk (everyone at the event asked to remain anonymous) met at another watch-related retreat. @HorologicallyMinded, or HM, says that collecting was at one point something he did in solitude. “People generally judge when they learn how much watches cost,” HM tells me. “You paid how much for that!?” But he and the other three founders began meeting up for monthly dinners before eventually taking turns to organize these larger events. “This group has been the most rewarding part of this hobby,” HM says. “It’s been so great to have a group of people that have a common interest, but it’s not work-related and no one judges.”Although the group has grown, the core four are still instrumental in making sure the functions go off without a hitch, with just the right spread of watches on the tables. “It is very deliberate and the four of us generally coordinate on it,” HM says. “We specifically make sure there is something for everyone.” That means ensuring there are at least a handful of watches worth less than $10,000—this time, that included several Rolex Datejusts, a Vulcain Cricket, and a gold Breitling from the 1940s. “We knew we were having some relative newbies and different people have different budgets, and we want everyone to be comfortable.” On the other end of the spectrum, some grail-level pieces were special requests from other members of the group.All the watches wound up getting plenty of TLC. “I love the fact that we’re a group that can, and did, totally geek out about a vintage Longines Legend Diver, while a Doré dial Patek is on the same table,” HM says.Below are some of the very best pieces I saw that night.A Patek Philippe ref. 3970, part of the house’s historic lineage of pieces that combine a perpetual calendar with a chronograph. The dial on this one is so tasty.A skeletonized Breguet Ref. 3355PT00PA0—maybe the watch of the night for me—on a show-stopping platinum bracelet.A few years ago, MB&F started making more approachable versions of its sci-fi-ready watches and allocating them through a lottery system. This is the M.A.D2, with an outer ring on the dial that spins around very quickly. It’s really fun.The aforementioned Rolex GMT-Master is a ref. 16760, a model produced during the ’80s that’s nicknamed the “Sophia Loren” thanks to its curvaceous profile.Omega has incredible stuff in its archives. This is a chronograph from the ’30s that’s controlled entirely through that single button at 2 o’clock.A couple of real bangers here. The Vacheron on the left is known as the “Cioccolatone,” because it resembles a square of chocolate. At the center is the Patek Philippe ref. 3417, an antimagnetic watch with just about the prettiest typography you’ll ever see on a watch. Zohran Mamdani should adopt that cursive for signs in the city, because it can make just about anything look nice: Warning: Rats. Or maybe, No Dumping Here.A cloisonné dial from—of all brands—IWC! I am such a sucker for a cloisonné, which refers to the intricate images carefully fashioned from wire and colorful baked enamel.A beautiful example of one of the Seafarers that Heuer made for Abercrombie & Fitch from the ’50s through the ’70s, back when the latter was still a rugged outdoor outfitter. The shades of orange, yellow, and blue are dreamy.A monochromatic take on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, which was produced in the ’80s and ’90s but looks incredibly modern.Universal Genève finally relaunched last year after decades on the shelf, but it’s hard to beat the originals. This Polerouter comes on an extremely cool “wave” bracelet, which basically uses a repeating chevron pattern to make the slinky bit of metal appear to be in motion.During World War II, a dozen watch manufacturers came together to make models following a strict set of specifications for the British Ministry of Defence. One of those brands was Longines, which produced this strapping piece.You didn’t think we’d wrap this list up without a gorgeous yellow-gold Daytona, did you?The ultimate fusion of sport and luxury watches. Heuer supplied this ’70s-era Carrera to Ferrari’s racing team, including legendary drivers like Jacky Ickx, Niki Lauda, and Clay Regazzoni.This Patek is cool, but the bracelet is insane.This isn’t your average Patek Philippe Nautilus. PP began producing this reference 3800 in 1981 as a smaller counterpart to the original. The few times I’ve gotten to try one on, I’m always struck by how perfect the proportions are. It’s nice and thin and looks just right on the wrist.The United States Merchant Marines’ logo really punches up this Day-Date.The ref. 6541 is the most beloved version of the Rolex Milgauss. It was produced in the ’50s and features a signature honeycomb dial. One sold for $2.5 million at auction in 2023.Is there a better way to time your yacht race than with this Heuer Skipper? Probably not.It’s good to have doubles, especially when it comes to vintage Rolex Explorer IIs.Cam Wolf is GQ’s Watch Editor. He joined the magazine in 2017 after working at Racked (RIP) as the site’s (first!) (and only!) Menswear Editor and Complex in the role of Style News Editor. Shortly into his GQ tenure, he immersed himself in the world of watches and quickly fell ... Read More