Esquire's Three Favorite BrandsProsGreat price-to-value ratioOffers plenty of men's and women's stylesPlenty of limited releasesConsWon't get the high quality you get from nicer brands or custom makersTecovas is the new kid on the block. Founded in 2015, its affordable, direct-to-consumer model has had a huge hand in pushing westernwear on social media. The bona fides are there, though. I've spoken to the design heads and written about the Tecovas process. This magazine endorsed 'em back in 2019 and again in 2022. They're made in León, Mexico, a city long known for leatherwork and boot making. These boots are going to be affordable and easy to buy with large stock.If you want quality exotics but don't want to pay the high price you see at other places, Tecovas is a good option. Same goes for the more fashion-forward styles. There are always ostrich and alligator square toes, but there are also things that are more in line with the fashion sensibilities of this New York City magazine: python and rockstar-inspired black snip toes.They're comfortable right out of the box because you get modern amenities that we've all become used to—synthetics in the sole and heel. That also helps keep the price down. If you read reviews on the internet, Tecovas gets grief for quality control. I've never had an issue, but I have talked to the design team about it in interviews. Tecovas knows about this feedback, and though it would refute some of those Reddit posts, says quality control throughout its massive lineup is priority number one. Whenever people come to me and ask what boot they should get, this is the first place I send them.My Favorite Pairs:The Johnny in suedeThe Garrett The Cartwright in blackAdvertisement - Continue Reading BelowProsPlenty of options for men and womenSuper high-qualityClassic styling, with regular fashion and exotic releasesPersonally, though, I'm a Lucchese man. Since 1883, these have been the boots of presidents, celebrities, and diplomats. Most importantly, they were the boots made for U.S. Cavalry out of Fort Sam Houston back at it’s founding. The history is what has always had a big impact on me. These days, the company tries to do as much of its production as possible in its El Paso factory. That's why I come back to Lucchese over and over.Producing in El Paso does create a specific type of boot, all of which I'm about to tell you fits very neatly into the Lucchese ethos; it's a big multi-national brand, but it is very proud of that classic cowboy boot maker heritage. Boot makers in El Paso are sticklers for the the old way of doing things. That means all the U.S.A.-made boots in the Lucchese lineup are leather from top to bottom. There's no filler in the soles. There's no plastic heel counter. There are steel shanks; my boots regularly set off game-day metal detectors, but that lets me sneak a flask into most sporting events. Points to my boots: "Sorry, steel shank," and they let me go. There's also a lot more handmade-ness that goes into full leather accessory parts. Leather in stacked heels have to be shaved to a more acute angle. Leather heel counters require a steady hand to shape. It makes the boots feel old-fashioned, but once they're broken-in nothing compares. The leather becomes an extension of your foot.Beyond that, the best praise I can give Lucchese is that these boots pictured are at least a decade older than I am, and I wear them multiple times a week. I scored these that were made in San Antonio for $200 on eBay a few years ago. The San Antonio tag means they were made no later than 1986, since that's when the company moved to El Paso. (Coincidentally, Chris Stapleton did a take on this style, with similar mule ear pull straps and cord patterns, in his 2023 capsule collection under the name San Antonio.) And again, with the obsession on the old way of doing things, the Lucchese design team has asked me for pictures of these boots to keep for design reference.My other pair is a rockstar-inspired buffalo leather in black with a snip toe, pictured in this article's lead image. Between the two, I'm in Lucchese more often than anything else. They're my most comfortable, most reliable footwear. There's that rich man's aura about Lucchese that some people think is stuck-up. When a celebrity or politician steps out in boots, chances are it's Lucchese. In Cormac McCarthy's No Country for Old Men, Lucchese boots are used as a differentiator between have and have-not characters. But there's a reason for that aura. Off the shelf, they're the best boots you can buy. And if you want to get into the world of custom boots, this would be my first pick as well.My Favorite PairsLuke, ostrichRio or Mission, wild-caught alligatorThe Original, American alligator moc-toe vampsTulip Exotic, blue crocodile ProsSimple, classic looks off the rackIncredible qualityConsThough not custom, these are of that quality, and the price reflects itSpeaking of custom boots, Zephan Parker is my recommendation for fashionable guys looking for custom boots. It's a team with a really obsessive process. If you're a hunter, it's one of the first places I'd send you to do something with your hides. American Tannery, which it works with on hides, is a standard-bearer that's also used by Lucchese and is (coincidentally) only a few miles from where I grew up in Georgia. I can attest to the quality of hides here. For bespoke, there's no shortage of great boot makers in the state of Texas, but like I said with Lucchese, there is a traditionalism that underscores everything older brands do. Parker, who is based in Houston, knows that world, but he's just as comfortable in the realm of modern menswear. That means a traditionalist could go there and get their high-difficulty cord patterns and color blocking, as could a menswear guy looking for something simple, modern, and one-of-a-kind.But that's bespoke. Recently, Parker has introduced a made-to-order program. This line takes the greatest hits of Parker's career as a boot maker and distills them down into a tightly edited range of boots that don't require the time (often measured in months) and expense (we're talking four grand or more) of going through the entire bespoke process. I've lusted after the Deep Brown Roughout boots for months and might make it a little post wedding gift to myself.Beyond all that, I think Parker is a great place for the city-traversing readers of this magazine to end up. The 'modern cowboy,' as Parker calls his customer, could be anyone from a businessman to a lawyer to a doctor or even a style blogger. The key is that they appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into a pair of bespoke boots—and like to tell their friends about it.Advertisement - Continue Reading BelowEight Other Cowboy Boot Brands We LikeA Young Up-and-Comer for ExoticsRujoA Young Up-and-Comer for ExoticsRujoProsA real focus on exotic vamps and loud quartersMakes surprisingly comfortable boots, even with all the exotic materialsA couple smooth leather and suede optionsConsNot the brand I'd send you to for all your needsRujo is another young brand I'm into. Founded in 2019, the idea was to give a youthful spirit to the old-timey world of cowboy boots. In 2025, that seems like a guaranteed way to print money, but in development for Rujo, I'm not sure it was so clear. The brand takes the now tried-and-true route. Designs are made in Rujo's Dallas headquarters, and the boots are manufactured in León, Mexico. There are regular leathers and suedes in the catalog, but Rujo is one of the main brands that leans into fashion-forward exotics. The best sellers are all exotics. The bulk of the offering is exotics. The name of the game is exotics. The quality is no better or worse than the other stuff at this price point. (If you've caught on to how many places manufacture in León, I can tell you there's some factory overlap.) I do think Rujo gets the design of exotics, though. The quarters are as flashy as the vamps. That's important if you're the type of guy who's going to wear his pants a touch shorter (be careful) and have some of the quarters visible when you cross your legs.Advertisement - Continue Reading BelowProsSuper comfyUnbeatable priceAriat Bench Made is another great Mexican-made line of bootsConsOverseas assembly doesn't sit well with some westernwear consumersAriat, in my mind, has always been a true western boot in the sense that most models were made for work. Hybrid rubber soles, horseman heels, and affordable prices so you won't lose sleep if a pair needs to be tossed. The brand is the official sponsor of Professional Bull Riders—doesn't get more cowboy than that. Ariat got ahead of the curve by being the first company to integrate athletic-footwear properties into its boots.One common thing you hear about Ariat boots is that they can be difficult to resole. That comes from models having rubber outsoles that themselves cannot be swapped out and replaced. You can, however, swap out entire soles, and Ariat does that in-house if you don't have a cobbler you trust.Since the cowboy boot is the most North American piece of footwear, people get understandably upset if they're made outside of Mexico or the U.S. Ariat is one of the few brands that do some manufacturing in Asia on lower-end styles; the quality on those is totally acceptable for a pair of work boots. But these days, Ariat has a high-end line called Ariat Bench Made. I was actually shocked by the quality of the pair I got. The catalog is not as deep as the one at Tecovas, who got to the DTC game first, but there's a really solid selection of cowboy and ankle boots in a couple high-quality leathers. And they keep that comfort factor that makes Ariat, Ariat.A Place for Simple, Dependable BootsFryeA Place for Simple, Dependable BootsFryeProsSimple, modern stylesLong standing brand; knows how to make a good pair of bootsConsDon't have the Western chops that some of us wantFrye is not especially western, but it's built out a little category of cowboy boots that have more edge than the traditional offerings. The brand has been offering simple and durable styles in black and brown smooth leathers. If you're buying your first pair of boots—or just generally worried about leaning too far into Americana—Frye is where I'd send you. These have a lot in common with the work boots menswear guys already love.Advertisement - Continue Reading BelowProsGreat qualityGood stylesConsNot the most urban cowboy leaning designsFor over 160 years, Rios of Mercedes has, relatively speaking, flown under the radar. It is a brand with an incredibly loyal fan base, a brand for real-deal cowboys, the kind of folks who truly value quality leather, standout exotics, and timeless design. Often talked about in the same breath as Lucchese, it still makes all of its boots in Texas, so the price point is on the high side. The designs are a bit more exotic and fashion-forward than some other brands'.ConsHigh-quality, but more work boots than fancy dancing bootsAlmost a decade before Lucchese set up shop, Herman Joseph Justin opened a shoe-repair business, eventually making bespoke boots that featured decorative stitching (a hallmark of cowboy boots) on the shaft so as to stiffen the leather. Over a century later, the brand is still kicking around, offering authentic cowboy boots at the most affordable prices. But the brand doesn't just stop there; it also offers other badass western apparel that will serve as the perfect pairing to your new set of kicks.Advertisement - Continue Reading BelowKnown for the Hats... But the Boots Ain't BadStetsonKnown for the Hats... But the Boots Ain't BadStetsonProsStyles lean modern, with zips and harnesses for the guy that wants to make a fashion statementAlso has a nice collection of classicsConsHigh enough in price that you could save just a bit more to get a nicer bootWhen it comes to true American labels, it doesn’t get more authentic than Stetson. The brand, for over a century-and-a-half, has outfitted cowboys, ranchers, and the military. It may be best known for offering the best cowboy hats, but don't overlook the boots.If I were shopping Stetson, I'd go for these simple burnished zip ropers. They're tasteful, modern, and plenty functional if you're going to put a lot of miles on them. And that burnish helps them moonlight as a pair of dress shoes. For classic Western styles or anything in the realm of exotics, I'd go to one of the more specialized makers.ProsOffers a variety of shoe stylesHighly reputableConsNot a cowboy-boot specialist brandThursday Boots is the perfect happy medium when it comes to cowboy boots. Notice how a lot of cowboy boots are ... expensive? It has excellent quality, don't get me wrong—we wouldn't be recommending it to you if it didn't. But unlike many others, Thursday Boots keeps that high quality at a much more affordable price point. It has classic styles that you can wear for years and years.Advertisement - Continue Reading BelowFashion-Forward Cowboy BootsAlviesFashion-Forward Cowboy BootsAlviesProsWesternwear institutionTimeless stylesA true South meets West brand, Austin-founded Alvies is giving you cowboy boots directly from the source. This is a company that's a household name in Texas, so you know you're getting authentic, high-quality designs and boots that take you anywhere. And while our editors especially love this quarter-inch snip-toe style, we understand it isn't for everyone, but if it is for you, then you stand out as a little more fashionable than the next guy.What to Look for In a Pair of Cowboy BootsFor me, it's materials. Materials. Materials. Materials. The best of the best on this list—Lucchese, Zephan Parker, and Tecovas—all function on different scales, but they all care about materials. On the low end (Tecovas) you have to make some concessions. Heel counters will be plastic, soles will have some filler as well. But once you hit the big boys, I encourage you to look for a traditional full leather construction. Not only does that attest to the quality and heritage of the boot, it requires more skilled hands (often more skilled domestic hands) to work on the boot. In an age where Made in the U.S.A. is a fake policy point, vote with your dollar and support American craftspeople.Advertisement - Continue Reading BelowWhat Are the Types of Cowboy Boots?What do you mean asking me this? Kind of a vague question. Let me break it down a few ways.First, there are two general styles of boots: cowboys and ropers.Cowboys: Exactly what you're thinking: higher heel (typically one-and-a-half-inch, sometimes two-inch for flair) made for sitting in stirrups. The quarters (the tall part of the boot) usually hit 12 to 14 inches, though there is a tradition—started in the 1950s—of making cowboy boots with shorter shafts. The heel is the defining factor.Ropers: That's because roper heels are short, usually the same as a dress shoe and around one-and-a-quarter-inch or less. Ropers were made for (guess what) ropers competing in rodeos. You have to jump off your horse, run to the cow, and tie it, so you need some maneuverability. Ropers also have a simple round toe and most likely lack the decorative elements of cowboy boots.What Are the Different Cowboy Boot Toes?Now this is a good question. Like I said, a tall heel is what distinguishes a cowboy boot from a roper. What distinguishes different cowboy boots from each other (besides material) is the toe shape.This is not a comprehensive list of shapes and variations, just the general categories. Here we go:Round Toe: Like you'd imagine, a simple rounded shape that tapers towards the foot arch. When it's wider, with more room in the toe box, you've got a more functional and workman roper toe.Square Toe: The most popular men's toe in modern times. Big and square, comfortable and functional.Snip Toe: A toe that gets skinny towards the end, but is just squared off. Looks as though it was going to end in a full point, but some one snipped the end. A preference of fashion types and rockstars.Cutter Toe/7 Toe: Some people might tell you these are different, but for the context of this magazine, I'm calling them functionally the same. The toe is squared off, but tapered. It's between a square and a snip, and when viewed from the side, the tip of the toe resembles the number 7. Advertisement - Continue Reading BelowHow Should Cowboy Boots Fit?This depends slightly on the type of boot you buy, and the materials used. It's also a big deal since these boots don't have laces. Let me run through some scenarios.General GuidanceEvery time you put a boot on, you should be using the pull tabs. You need to hear than thunk when your foot pulls into the boot. If your foot slides in with no resistance, the boot is too big. If it physical hurts you to pull it on, the boot is too small.Cheaper Boots With Synthetic ComponentsOnce you add anything modern—plastic heel counters, plastic shanks, and memory foam footbeds—you want the boot to fit perfectly from wear number one. If it's too tight, it won't get better. For every brand on this list, don't be afraid to send boots back and ask for a new size.Traditionally Made Boots with Totally Leather ComponentsHere, you want the first few wears to be tight. Not so tight you can't move, but it's OK if they're a little uncomfortable. If you sweat in the boots, walk around all day, or (honestly) drink too much, they might be a little hard to take off; that's fine, ask a partner to help.You want this because leather has a good bit of give built in. When a boot is made fully from leather, it starts tight, but after a handful of wears molds over your foot. It's a beautiful process, and there's no easy way to fake it.Reptile and Fish ExoticsMammal leather (ostrich, as well) is great at conforming to the foot. Reptile leathers less so, but they still make good off-the-rack boots. Fish, namely shark and stingray, do not stretch at all. I really would only recommend going bespoke for those. Why You Can Trust EsquireI was wearing cowboy boots before TikTok brought them back in style, and Esquire at large has been doing the same. We talk about a lot of pairs, but we always come back to the same makers. Most recently we loved Tecovas, Lucchese, and the occasional small-time maker. We love no-frills stuff like these suede Tecovas or the chocolate-shade counterparts, but we love us some exotics as well. Broadly, we report on westernwear, and we'll talk to anyone who wants to talk about boots. Sure, we go heavy on Tecovas and Lucchese, but that's because we're buying ready-made fashionable boots. If you want want to talk custom, we can do that too. Basically, what do we not know about cowboy boots?
11 Best Cowboy Boot Brands for Men
Full Article
Original Source
Read the full article at Esquire →KhanList aggregates and links to publicly available news content. We do not host full articles from third-party sources. Always verify important information with original sources.