10 Classic Photos of Coco Chanel That Capture the Evolution of 20th-Century Chic

For centuries, clothing wore women—not the other way around. That changed when Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel entered the fashion world in the early 20th century. The French milliner-turned-designer was determined to transform womenswear from stuffy, structured garments into a second skin defined by fluid fabrics and androgynous silhouettes.As Chanel famously said, "A woman is closest to being naked when she is well dressed." Her introduction of the "little black dress" did just that. Along with the menswear-inspired tweed suits that became synonymous with her style, Chanel’s designs redefined women’s fashion for generations to come.However, Chanel’s legacy also includes a dark wartime past, including her documented collaboration with the Nazi regime in occupied Paris. Born on August 19, 1883, she remains one of the most influential—and controversial—figures in fashion history. Here, we trace the visual evolution of her style across six decades.1915Coco Chanel posing in an embellished draped dress, 1915 | Photo12/Universal Images Group/Getty ImagesIn a 1915 portrait, Coco Chanel poses in a draped white gown cinched with a floral-embellished waistline. The unstructured design signaled Chanel’s early shift away from tight, rigid corsetry. 1924Chanel at the Chester Races in England with the Duke of Westminster, 1924. | Phillips/Topical Press Agency/Hulton Archive/Getty ImagesWalking at the Chester Races, Chanel wears an oversized coat and slingback heels alongside the Duke of Westminster. Her relationship with the Duke exposed her to the tweeds and relaxed tailoring that would become hallmarks of her menswear-inspired style.1931Chanel inside the Hotel Pierre during a trip to New York, 1931. | New York Times Co./Getty ImagesDuring her first visit to New York City, Chanel relaxes at Hotel Pierre in a white silk jacket, trousers, and pearls. The relaxed ensemble reflects the French leisurewear that had become central to her style.1932Chanel sitting at a desk inside a London hotel, 1932. | Keystone/Hulton Archive/Getty ImagesSeated at a London hotel desk, Chanel wears a dark fur-collared coat paired with a wool beret. The simple combination reflects her preference for polished yet practical pieces.1937Chanel photographed by Horst P. Horst in Paris, 1937. | Horst P. Horst/Conde Nast/Getty ImagesIn an iconic Horst portrait, Chanel sports layered gold medallion necklaces and a hair ribbon. The bold jewelry stands out against the otherwise simple dress.1954Chanel posing at her design table for a 'Vogue' shoot, 1954. | Henry Clarke/Condé Nast/Getty ImagesMarking her 1954 fashion comeback, Chanel sits at her design table in a pocketed jersey jacket, pin-studded blouse, and grosgrain belt. At 71, she was back at the helm of her couture house, reworking the tweed suit that would become one of her most recognizable designs.1957Chanel boarding a flight after a store opening in Dallas, 1957. | Shel Hershorn/Hulton Archive/Getty ImagesChanel bids farewell to Stanley Marcus after a Neiman Marcus store opening in Dallas, boarding her plane in a classic suit and layered pearls. The 1957 visit came just a few years after her return to couture.1960Chanel resting on a sofa inside her 31 Rue Cambon apartment, 1960. | FPG/Hulton Archive/Getty ImagesChanel relaxes on her suede sofa at 31 Rue Cambon, styled in her signature tweed suit and pearls. The look was a staple of her personal style by the 1960s.1968Chanel attending an evening event in Paris with Jacques Chazot, 1968. | Jacques Haillot/Apis/Sygma/Sygma/Getty ImagesAttending a Paris event with dancer Jacques Chazot, Chanel wears a white gown with a matching stole. Even in her later years, she kept her evening looks elegant and understated.1969Chanel watching a runway presentation at her Paris salon, 1969. | Bettmann/Getty ImagesSeated on the mirrored staircase at 31 Rue Cambon, Chanel wears a tweed skirt suit and cat-eye glasses as she watches her 1969 collection presentation. From her spot on the stairs, Chanel kept a close eye on the collection as the models walked below.More Like This: